- 19 jan 2024 15:08
#2847611
There are several posts on problems with the charge door in ID's (and other VW's ...). Issues ranging from 'will not open', 'will not close', 'stuck' or otherwise.
Below my experience with replacing the actuator, which was causing the issue in my case.
Disclaimer: I'm not a car mechanic, so below is just for illustration, no warranty, etc. etc. The dealership is your best option!
My ID3 is an early '21 and has by now done some 60k happy km's. Since about a year, the charge door was acting up in various ways. Under warranty, the dealership applied some grease
, this did improve things temporary. Now out of warranty, and in the colder season, the problem came back big time. I decided to replace the actuator.
These actuators are commonly available from several brands, they cost between 25 and 35 Euro (3rd market), you can obtain it from the dealer as well.
This is the part-number of the actuator I used, there are other ones, I do not know if this is the best alternative, this is not a recommendation.
8421 part number new actuator.jpg (1.77 MiB) 955 keer bekeken
The steps to replace are outlined very well in the VW ID3 workshop manual which I used (vw-id3-body-repairs-exterior-eng, sections 3.2 and 3.3). I recommend following those.
The flap and the door is one sub-assembly which can be removed from the body. It is held in place by clicks. The location of the clicks are indicated by small indents in the flap. The biggest challenge is removing the flap+door. As suggested by the workshop manual, start at the top rear end click. Apply soapy water and make sure the flap is nice and warm (and hence more flexible). Insert a thin plastic tool (I successfully used a yellow plastic glue spreader that came with Bisonkit, perhaps a credit card will do as well). Push the flap a bit downwards, it will move just a little bit, but that will make it a somewhat easier. Be careful not to damage the rubber sealing around the flap. Once inserted, use the more sturdy blue tool to pry out the top rear side a bit. Insert the second blue tool to ensure the click remains 'open'. Proceed to the next click, bottom rear as suggested in the manual. Once the second one is open, you will now be able to pry out the rear side of the entire flap+door somewhat. By careful that the open door does not damage the paintwork! Next, the entire assembly slides backwards.
8427 tools used.jpg (2.74 MiB) 955 keer bekeken
The blue prying tools are from a kit I bought, alternatively, get the official VAS 895 015 kit.
This photo shows the first click:
8413 flap unit inside.jpg (1.73 MiB) 955 keer bekeken
Once the flap+door is out, disconnect the two cables and the drain pipe. You can now replace the actuator (two Torx screws).
You might be tempted to try and reach the clicks on the flap from the inside by removing some paneling, however, I feel that even from the inside that will not work. See Photo.
8426 You cannot reach from inside.jpg (2.25 MiB) 955 keer bekeken
Replacing the flap+door in the car is straightforward. But, take care to pull out the drain pipe through the flap first, then click the flap back in place and slide the drain pipe back in position. This to avoid that the drain pipe is bent. Have a look prior to installing. Also, again, be careful not to damage the paintwork.
The actuator is in fact a small electric motor with some gearwheels to control the lock. It will work on 12V and draws some 800 mA. I'm not sure if it is designed to work on 12V though. The old one indeed worked intermittently.
To better understand the actuator failure, I decide to open it up (this is a destructive step!) using my Dremel tool. Low and behold, there was water inside and a lot of rust and other gunk. See picture.
8432 old actuator water damage.jpg (2.29 MiB) 955 keer bekeken
No wonder it failed.
Question remains how to avoid the same from happening again.
So, VW, if you are reading this: what is your suggestion?
Any further tips, improvements or suggestions: welcome!
Below my experience with replacing the actuator, which was causing the issue in my case.
Disclaimer: I'm not a car mechanic, so below is just for illustration, no warranty, etc. etc. The dealership is your best option!
My ID3 is an early '21 and has by now done some 60k happy km's. Since about a year, the charge door was acting up in various ways. Under warranty, the dealership applied some grease
, this did improve things temporary. Now out of warranty, and in the colder season, the problem came back big time. I decided to replace the actuator.These actuators are commonly available from several brands, they cost between 25 and 35 Euro (3rd market), you can obtain it from the dealer as well.
This is the part-number of the actuator I used, there are other ones, I do not know if this is the best alternative, this is not a recommendation.
The flap and the door is one sub-assembly which can be removed from the body. It is held in place by clicks. The location of the clicks are indicated by small indents in the flap. The biggest challenge is removing the flap+door. As suggested by the workshop manual, start at the top rear end click. Apply soapy water and make sure the flap is nice and warm (and hence more flexible). Insert a thin plastic tool (I successfully used a yellow plastic glue spreader that came with Bisonkit
, perhaps a credit card will do as well). Push the flap a bit downwards, it will move just a little bit, but that will make it a somewhat easier. Be careful not to damage the rubber sealing around the flap. Once inserted, use the more sturdy blue tool to pry out the top rear side a bit. Insert the second blue tool to ensure the click remains 'open'. Proceed to the next click, bottom rear as suggested in the manual. Once the second one is open, you will now be able to pry out the rear side of the entire flap+door somewhat. By careful that the open door does not damage the paintwork! Next, the entire assembly slides backwards.
This photo shows the first click:
You might be tempted to try and reach the clicks on the flap from the inside by removing some paneling, however, I feel that even from the inside that will not work. See Photo.
The actuator is in fact a small electric motor with some gearwheels to control the lock. It will work on 12V and draws some 800 mA. I'm not sure if it is designed to work on 12V though. The old one indeed worked intermittently.
To better understand the actuator failure, I decide to open it up (this is a destructive step!) using my Dremel tool. Low and behold, there was water inside and a lot of rust and other gunk. See picture.
Question remains how to avoid the same from happening again.
So, VW, if you are reading this: what is your suggestion?
Any further tips, improvements or suggestions: welcome!
Laatst gewijzigd door GoedID op 21 jan 2024 14:20, 3 keer totaal gewijzigd.
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